Near Pembroke, in Pembrokeshire, Lamphey was long the pleasure residence of the Bishops of St Davids — a rural and refined place of retreat. At the Reformation, this episcopal palace changed nature: it became the seigneurial domain of one of the most prominent families of Elizabeth's reign, the Devereux.
From an episcopal palace to a seigneurial stronghold
Lamphey was a pleasure residence of the Bishops of St Davids, arranged with the elegant openwork arcading characteristic of the building bishop Henry de Gower (fourteenth century) — a place where the prelates came to rest, far from affairs. But the Reformation overturned everything: in 1546, under Henry VIII, the palace was surrendered to the Crown, then given to Richard Devereux, a kinsman of the king. From an ecclesiastical residence, Lamphey became a lay aristocratic domain — a typical journey of Church property under the Reformation.
The domain of the Earls of Essex
Lamphey then passed to the Earls of Essex. Walter Devereux, 1st Earl of Essex, spent part of his childhood there; he would marry Lettice Knollys, cousin of Elizabeth I (and future wife of Robert Dudley). His son, the famous Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, the brilliant and tragic disgraced favourite of Elizabeth — executed for treason in 1601 after his failed revolt —, had attachments to Lamphey. After his fall, the palace was almost deserted: the disgrace of the favourite led to the abandonment of his Welsh house. Lamphey thus illustrates the link between the destiny of the great Elizabethan favourites and that of their domains. To see: the great hall with de Gower's openwork arcading, the west tower, the chapel, the peaceful rural setting.
Did you know?
Lamphey saw the growing-up of one of the most fascinating favourites of Elizabeth I: Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, whose family held this domain. Handsome, brilliant, adored then hated by the ageing queen, he ended by revolting against her in 1601 — a folly that led him to the scaffold. His fall dragged down many things, including the abandonment of Lamphey: when a great favourite fell under the Tudors, a whole world, houses included, sank with him.
Notes
Lamphey Bishop's Palace lies at Lamphey, near Pembroke, Pembrokeshire; ruins run by Cadw, open to visits. Seasonal hours to check.
Quiz
- What was Lamphey originally?
- A pleasure residence of the Bishops of St Davids
- A castle
- A university
- To which family was the palace given after 1546?
- The Devereux (Earls of Essex)
- The Tudors
- The Mansels
- Which disgraced favourite of Elizabeth had attachments here?
- Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex
- Walter Raleigh
- Francis Drake